An Unforgettable Greek Island Getaway on Rhodes

Greek Island Getaway – Rhodes

The Greek Islands have an island for everyone, and each one is like visiting a country unto itself. From the famed sunsets on Santorini, to the party atmosphere on Ios, to the beautiful beaches of Lefkada – you’ll find an island to suit your tastes. Rhodes has a taste of all the islands in one; sandy beaches, unspoilt villages, history, culture and night life.

I must admit I have a soft spot for Rhodes, particularly the village of Lindos. It’s where my husband proposed to me, and he couldn’t have picked a better spot to pop the question, in my humble opinion.

Set at the foot of its ancient acropolis, white sugar cube houses cluster together on the hillside, all the way down into the village proper, and all have a commanding view of the sparkling Mediterranean Sea. Lindos itself is a very popular tourist destination, with busloads of tourists arriving daily from Rhodes Town. After a couple of days there, we learned their schedules and avoided the village during those times; either hitting Lindos’s picturesque beach or lounging poolside at our hotel with a good book. Comprised of narrow, winding, cobblestone footpaths, you’ll soon see why we chose not to contend with hundreds and hundreds of backpack-sporting day-trippers to reach a favorite taverna or pub. The buses all arrive in the still cool morning hours (you’ll see loads of them parked alongside the highway) heading back to Rhodes town around lunchtime and leaving us with the village to explore all to ourselves, along with locals, sunburnt expats who’ve made this their permanent home, and others staying in the immediate vicinity.

If you’re not averse to somewhat of a climb in the Dodecanese heat, this is the best time to make your way up to the Acropolis, when you can take a wander around at your leisure without having to fight the crowds for the perfect photo-op of both the expansive aqua-marine Mediterranean panorama and the postcard-perfect view of the cubist houses climbing the hillside. You can also get some stunning photos here of the 20-columned Hellenistic stoa, from 200 BC. Donkeys are also available for next to nothing to pack you and your gear up the steep, slippery, cobblestone trail; but after watching so many of the poor creatures struggling up the hill under the weight of some 200 lb plus tourists, we just didn’t have the heart to hire one for a climb we were perfectly physically capable of doing ourselves.

Back in the village, there is certainly no shortage of pubs, tavernas, or cafes to re-hydrate yourself after your hike up to the Acropolis. The rooftop dining here is nothing short of spectacular. Fresh local ingredients, including olives, vine-ripened tomatoes, goat’s cheese and fresh made pitas, paired with unparalleled ocean views make any traveler feel as though they’re living the lifestyle of the rich and famous. This is where we fell absolutely, adoringly in love with Greece. Try a different rooftop every night, with a slightly different vantage point, and you can’t go wrong. Of special mention, of course, is Kalypso Restaurant, where my husband proposed to me. A 17th century Captain’s House turned restaurant, this isn’t just an amazing place to get engaged, it also boasts incredible sunset views, romantic rooftop dining, and delicious Greek fare. If you get the chance, try Restaurant Arhontiko as well. For a more casual experience try The Courtyard Bar, which gets fairly lively in the evenings, with a DJ spinning vintage tracks (he starts at 50’s music and changes up the decades right up until the present day as the night goes on) and a packed dance floor. A favorite of my husband’s was The Sunburnt Arms Pub, where he could catch premier league football matches and, he was ecstatic to discover, they sell genuine English Pork Pies. Of course there are plenty of beach restaurants as well, if barefoot dining as you listen to the waves roll in is what you desire.

If you want to venture out of Lindos and explore Rhodes a bit, there are plenty of things to do and see. Your hotel will be happy to arrange a rental car or scooter to explore the island with, and the roads here are easily navigated, with winding cliffside views to accompany you on your way. The eastern side of the island is home to some of the best beaches here; Kalithea Thermi, Ladiko Beach, Kolymbia and Tsambika are all worth checking out, to satisfy your inner beach bum.

If you’re looking for a little more history (and why not? You’re in Greece, after all!), Rhodes Town is a must see. Old Town is known as the largest inhabited medieval town in Europe, and a walk through here is like a stroll back in time. Take a day or two to explore Old Town, making sure to take in the Avenue of the Knights, the Temple of the Aphrodite, the many outdoor plaza dining options, (or just stop and have a Mythos Beer), and the myriad of shops and outdoor markets, selling everything from hand-made Turkish rugs to inexpensive Greek statue knock-offs.

While in Rhodes Town, consider booking an excursion to nearby Marmaris, Turkey. Here you’ll find a sprawling market that sells, among many many other things, ridiculously cheap brand name clothes, some are knock offs, some are genuine - it’s nearly impossible to tell the difference, but they’re all of good quality. You’ll also find the best salesmen I’ve ever come across; Turkish rug salesmen. We went here with the intention of purchasing one, so weren’t disappointed by the selection and range of prices. But beware, whether you intended to or not, you may find yourself lugging a cumbersome Turkish rug in your carry-on on your journey back home. It was also recommended to my husband that he shell out the approximately $2.00 Canadian and experience a Turkish Shave while he was here. He did, and declared it “the best shave he’d ever had.”

You’ll be glad to get back to your hotel in Lindos after a day of fast-paced haggling in Marmaris. I should mention, it’s a good idea to pre-book your accommodations in Lindos prior to your arrival, especially if you’re picky about location, or amenities. We booked ourselves into Lindos Gardens, which more than suited our needs. Basic, clean rooms, with no air conditioning, but with two outdoor pools, a small bar, and a restaurant that served delicious bacon sandwiches on fresh crusty rolls for breakfast, the location here was absolutely prime. Located up the hill and across the highway from Lindos, but not too far that we couldn’t walk it, we were happy to have a quiet room to retire to every evening, even if it inspired a round of good-natured whining when we contemplated the very steep trek we had ahead of us to get there. On our way back to the hotel every night, we were treated to the sight of goats performing amazing feats, like climbing 90 degree angle stone retaining walls to munch on olive branches. There was a market at the bottom of our hill, just across the highway from Lindos, that sold fresh fruit and veggies, and it became our custom each night to purchase a handful of carrots to feed the donkeys that were penned up near our hotel every night. After a few days of this, the donkeys were hee-hawing in anticipation of our arrival when they heard us coming up the hill.

I’ve yet to explore all the islands in Greece that I wish to, but I can guarantee you, Rhodes is one that I’ll definitely be returning to again. And again.

10 Great Places to Dine in Vancouver

10 Great Places to Dine Out in Vancouver

Vancouver is a city that satisfies the senses. From the sight of the snow-capped mountains providing a resplendent backdrop to the city, to the sounds of the diverse live music scene, to the cedar, fir and hemlock trees that scent the breeze as you make your way around the seawall encircling Stanley Park, to the feel of the sand between your toes as you dip your feet in the ocean on Sunset Beach. Nowhere are the senses more satisfied, however, than when it comes to pleasing the palate. Vancouver is a Foodie’s delight. Largely owing to its multicultural population, one can find just about any fare to satisfy their craving. Here are just 10 of the endless list of great restaurants to try out in Vancouver, in no particular order, of course.

10. Salmon House on The Hill

This is a favorite of mine when I have visitors from overseas. Located on the hillside in the high priced real estate area of West Vancouver, it’s the perfect place to take them and show off my beautiful city; particularly on a clear, sunny day. With tiered seating, it just isn’t possible to get a bad table in this restaurant, providing every guest with stunning West End sunset views. The food isn’t something you’ll soon forget either. Specializing in our unique brand of West Coast Cuisine, the menu leans heavily on, you guessed it, salmon. If salmon, or even seafood, isn’t your thing however, there are plenty of other choices to keep you happy; such as the Roasted 7 Bone Rack of Lamb, with pomme puree and raspberry mint jus. Or the Grilled 'Kettle Ridge' Beef Tenderloin. If you’re lucky enough to see the Salmon Wellington turn up on the ever-changing menu, take advantage! Salmon House on The Hill also boasts an extensive wine list, and your server will be happy to provide pairing suggestions for you.

9. Le Gavroche

An intimate, elegant atmosphere in a refurbished two-story Victorian home in the West End, this French restaurant is the perfect setting for romantic dates, anniversary dinners, or even as a choice locale to pop the question. Rich, heady menu offerings will win over even the most jaded gourmet. With an award winning wine selection, you’ll find any pairing to suit your budget, from the less expensive Okanagan vintages to Vieux Château Certan 1928, which will run you about $5500.00 a bottle (yikes!). Seated by the dining room fireplace, sampling one of the sumptuous items from their seasonal menus, you’ll be hard pressed to find a reason to leave Le Gavroche.

8. Granville Island Market

From very very fine dining to very very casual, that doesn’t mean that Granville Island Market won’t satisfy your desire for sensational dining experiences. GI Market, has, quite literally, everything you need to create the perfect meal. Whether it be a plate of fresh, made from scratch perogies topped with a dollop of sour cream and fried onions, a delicious Indian curry with basmati rice, fresh caught seafood, or a hodge podge of items from the market to put together the perfect picnic, GI Market can definitely accommodate. One of my favorite things to do here is to wander through the market, picking out import cheeses, fresh baked artisan breads, sliced deli meats, pickled olives, and various local fruits or veggies and setting up my own little picnic on one of the benches overhanging the waterfront. Granville Island provides the atmosphere and entertainment, very talented street performers and buskers, I just sit and soak it up, along with the sun and the ocean breeze.

7. L’Altro Buca at The Buchan Hotel

Formerly The Parkside Restaurant, the owners decided to tone down the formal a notch at this West End gem, much to the delight of neighborhood regulars, who found they could only afford a night out at The Parkside once in a great while (although it was worth the price!). Now priced much more affordably, L’Altro Buca provides the same attention to detail and impeccable service as before, with a much more Italian slant on menu items. The food isn’t the only draw to this restaurant however; it’s the location and the ambience. And the Italian piazza style patio in the summer. Hidden away in a residential area of the West End; Haro Street near Stanley Park, tucked underneath The Buchan Hotel (an historic boutique hotel that’s worth taking a wander through while you’re there), the walk here is as pleasing to the eye as the food here is to the palate. They do provide valet parking if you’re coming from out of the area, as parking is at a premium in the West End.

6. Afghan Horseman

Back to more casual dining, Afghan Horseman is located on Granville Island, and has been a favorite among locals since their previous location on Broadway Street. Even if the food or service was mediocre, or even sub-standard, which it most certainly isn’t, I would still love this restaurant for the authentic Afghani atmosphere. Request one of the low tables, where you can dine cross-legged on the floor amongst a scattering of patterned silk pillows, casbah style. Similar to Persian, Mediterranean, or Middle Eastern fare, Afghan Horseman has plenty of options for those of you who are a little leery of sampling new ethnic fare. Try the horseman platter for two, and get ready to pack a whole lot of that up to go, it’s just too much to eat all in one go. They also have many excellent vegetarian choices on their menu.

5. Café de Paris

Another West End favorite, this French bistro provides an excellent location for people watching on busy Denman Street. Open for lunch and dinner, the menu here is constantly changing and is worth going back to, often. Try the house made pate de campagne or pommes frites (the best in the city) and enjoy the rich wood décor with brass furnishings while you decide on one of their carefully selected wines. Their desserts alone are worth the journey there. A friend of mine used to go there once a month for lunch and then bring one of their house made desserts, boxed up, to me at my place of work down the street. I looked forward to his lunches there with great anticipation!

4. Lupo

Departing from the West End, Yaletown’s Lupo (formerly Villa del Lupo) is housed in another refurbished 1800’s era heritage house. Fireside dining, Italian favorites, and a comfortable atmosphere keep Yaletown locals coming back here again and again. Take a wander through the house while you’re here to look at some of the classic architecture, although some walls have been knocked out to provide a more spacious dining experience since dropping the “Villa del” from their name. Lupo is in the perfect location for an intimate dinner with friends, dates, or significant others before the theatre, a concert, or even a hockey game.

3. The Teahouse in Stanley Park

There are not many restaurants in the city that can compete with The Teahouse’s location, or its view, for that matter. Located Cliffside in Vancouver’s picturesque Stanley Park, The Teahouse offers sweeping sunset views of Vancouver’s English Bay. That being said, staff here has a lot to live up to in this location, which they more than do. Consisting of impeccably prepared West Coast Cuisine, a stop here for brunch, lunch or dinner will not disappoint. Their outdoor garden patio is one of the best in the city, and staff here makes fine-diners and coffee drinkers alike feel equally welcome. Try some samplings from their small plates menu. The AAA Burger is one of the best I’ve had in a long time.

2. Joe Fortes Seafood and Chop House

A longtime Vancouver fixture, Joe Fortes has probably the best roof-top garden patio to be found in the city. Located on Thurlow Street just off Vancouver’s shopping Mecca, Robson Street, it’s not unusual to spot a celebrity or two dining on Joe Fortes famous freshly shucked oysters. Reservations are certainly recommended here as this place never seems to have a “down time”; bustling waiters, lively conversations amongst satisfied diners, and men in suits downing a quick martini or two over business lunches all add to the atmosphere here. A must try here is one of Joe Fortes signature dishes; the 3-tiered Seafood Tower.

1. La Bodega Restaurante & Tapa Bar

Spanish cuisine and hospitality at its best in downtown Vancouver. Located on Howe Street, the décor, staff, and cuisine here are so authentic you’ll feel like you’re in Spain. Featuring a varied menu of extremely reasonably priced Spanish tapas, it’s the perfect place to host a birthday, staff, or family gathering. With intimate candle-lit corner tables for two, it’s also a great date restaurant, with perfect share plates for you and your sweetheart to enjoy. Family friendly as well, kids will love trying just a little sample from each plate, ordering more plates of what they like if they wish. This charming little bodega soon becomes a favorite for everyone that stops in for a bite; repeat customers are common here.

Well, that’s just a taste, if you’ll pardon the pun, of what visitors to Vancouver have in store for them, gastronomically. It would take years to sample all that Vancouver has on offer for the hungry traveler, and our selection is ever-changing and grows more diverse by the day. I hope you find this list helpful in your search for the perfect dining experience, I know I certainly enjoyed sampling all that these delightful restaurants had to offer!

Los Ayala - A Different Kind of Mexico

Just a forty-five minute drive north of Puerto Vallarta, at the foot of the Sierra de Vallejo Mountains, lies the lovely seaside fishing village of Los Ayala. Easily accessible by rental car, taxi, or bus, the drive there is half the experience, with lush, dense jungle on display alongside the highway, separated by surf towns and seaside villages along the way, as well as the occasional traditional cemetery to admire. This is not your typical Mexican vacation destination. You won’t find sprawling all-inclusive resorts here, no Hard Rock Cafes, no Planet Hollywoods, and no poolside beer-chugging competitions. In short, my kind of place.

Being new parents to a five month old daughter, it was a bit of a tough call to decide where to go on our first real family vacation. The answer came in the form of her doting grandparents. They invited us to join them on their yearly holiday to Los Ayala, Mexico, where they rent a place for two months of the year. Discovered by word of mouth, it’s the perfect place for a family vacation. Hosted by owners Manuel and Yolanda, they rent a two bedroom, two bathroom apartment in a small complex about a one minute walk from the beach. For a reasonable price, this includes your own kitchen, a courtyard pool, outdoor barbeque at your disposal, and outdoor dining area for groups of people, should you wish to entertain friends. There are a multitude of houses, apartments, and bungalows available with similar facilities in the area, and if you’re feeling brave enough to arrive without prearranged accommodations, it’s more than likely that just a short walk around the grid of dirt roads or the cobblestone street running alongside the beach through town will find you exactly what you seek.

Los Ayala is a very authentic Mexican experience, being a popular destination for families from Guadalajara and Mexico City to escape for weekend getaways. You also get your fair share of Canadian Snowbirds; retirees escaping from the dreary Canadian winters that can sometimes seem to last for years. Most of these folk have been coming here for many years running and have just as much knowledge of the area as the locals.

Having a basic knowledge of Spanish comes in handy here, as many of the locals do not speak English, which adds to the experience. Get ready to mime out many of your conversations with local shop owners, who are more than patient and willing to help you find what you’re looking for.

The half mile strip of beach that runs the length of Los Ayala makes for the perfect morning walk. Large waves not quite big enough for surfing pound the shore as pelicans beg for scraps from the prawn carts and fishermen arriving with their catch of the day. The north end of the beach is fairly secluded, while the south end plays host to a handful of barefoot dining restaurants. All are inexpensive and serve delicious Mexican fare. Hours of operation can be somewhat random though. In the short time that we were there, we couldn’t figure out a pattern to their opening and closing schedules.

A short hike through the jungle on the south end of the beach brings you to Playa del Beso (Beach of the Kiss), and Henry’s Bar, a family run beach bar that epitomizes the term “dropping out of the rat race.” Henry lives and works here with his wife and family, all of whom lend a hand where they can in running the business on this isolated bit of beach. It would be easy to spend the entire day on this pristine beach; plenty of shade or sun, depending on your preference, calm clear water, ridiculously cheap beer, fresh caught fish or prawns on the menu, and Henry’s adorable two year old daughter was delighted to entertain our baby for the duration of our visit.

Los Ayala is an extremely family friendly place, with many of the locals running out of their shops to lift our daughter out of our arms for a cuddle as we walked her through the town or along the beach. The local shops carry most everything you need for care of a young baby should you have forgotten to pack anything, like diaper cream, wipes, formula, or children’s Tylenol. Anything else that you may desire seems to arrive by pick-up truck on a daily basis, with the drivers driving around Los Ayala with a loudspeaker sing-songing about watermelons, fresh bread, camerones (prawns), and tamales. One of my favorite things was picking out mini pineapple pies and fresh banana muffins from the bread truck. However, if there is anything you are unable to find here, a fifteen minute walk brings you to the next town over, Guayabitos, which more than likely will have what you need, not to mention restaurants, discos, beach bars and shopping strips.

It’s pretty quiet in Los Ayala during the week, and even with weekend revelers busing in from other destinations, it still wraps up fairly early in the evenings. If you’re looking for a little more excitement, take a colectivo, or combi into Guayabitos or La Penita. Cheaper than a taxi (which isn’t all that expensive either), the colectivo, or combi, is a mini-bus that runs the route from town to town and drops you in a central location, along with other locals sharing the ride.
If you’re up for some shopping, don’t miss the market in La Penita on Thursday (and definitely hit Hinde y Jaime’s Bar while you’re there for some amazing 80 cent prawn or fish tacos!), or in Guayabitos on Mondays. The outdoor market in La Penita carries everything from dollar store type paraphernalia to gorgeous crafts handmade by the Huichol tribes, native to the region. Guayabitos market carries a similar selection but much less of the dollar store bric-a-brac. If you get the chance to take in a sunset while in Guayabitos, it’s worth the climb up the hill to get a 180 degree view from Vista Guayabitos restaurant, which carries a fairly decent wine selection and freshly caught and prepared seafood dishes, including lobster, if you get there on the right day.

Another destination, a little further out, but a scenic drive all the same, is the surfer town, Sayulita, which seemed downright hectic after a week of watching the waves roll in on the beach in Los Ayala. We took a taxi here from Los Ayala, which ran us about twenty dollars Canadian one way, it’s about a forty minute drive so that sounded reasonable to us. Prices can be slightly higher on the return journey, but still in the twenty to thirty dollar range.

There is no shortage of sights to take in or things to do in Sayulita. Spend the day in a beach bar watching the surfers, or wander around the plaza checking out local arts and crafts and alternative clothing stores. Take surf lessons, go snorkeling, ATV’ing, or horseback riding and then take your pick from one of the limitless award winning restaurants or cough up a few pesos for some street dining at one of the Taquerias. Like I said, no shortage of things to do here. Night life gets pretty lively here, with all the surfers that have taken up residence here mingling with short term holiday-makers.

Back in Los Ayala you’ll feel a sense of peace returning to you after the crowds, the revelers, the hard drinking spring breakers of Sayulita. No, Los Ayala is not your typical Mexican vacation destination by any stretch of the imagination, but perhaps it should be.

The Art of Relaxation in Vang Vieng, Laos

The Art of Relaxation, in Vang Vieng, Laos


At first glance, you might feel deeply uneasy about being dropped off on the side of the road in the heart of, well, seemingly nowhere. The stunning views of the limestone mountains looming up around you will soon distract you from any feelings of unease, however. And just a short walk from the side of the highway brings you into the ultra laid-back, low key village of Vang Vieng.

Make no mistake; Vang Vieng is not the most convenient place to get to in a country which has the dubious distinction of being the “most bombed country in history.” Quite often it’s a welcome pit stop on the long, hot bus ride between Luang Prabang and Vientiane. It’s a 6-8 hour bus ride from the lovely Luang Prabang, if you’re coming from the North, or a 3-4 hour bus ride from the capital city of Vientiane, south of Vang Vieng. The bus ride is one of the most scenic, albeit long and winding, you’ll ever have the opportunity to enjoy. So have your camera handy. And your gravol.

There is no shortage of budget hostels, guesthouses and bungalows in Vang Vieng, usually running in the price range of about $1-$5 US, so don’t worry about booking ahead. The stilted bungalows near the river can be quite charming, but make sure to check them and the bathrooms out before committing to a night there, some can be extremely run down. Roosters crowing, chickens softly clucking and pigs snuffling their way around underneath your raised bungalow adds to the charm, some find. Of course, not everyone finds these goings on “charming” at 3 am.

Consisting of a mere three dirt roads with dirt footpaths in and around the market down to the river, one might get the impression that there’s not a lot to do in Vang Vieng, but give it a chance. Most travelers end up extending their stay here, due to the funky vibe and welcome atmosphere. Some people may attribute that to the lure of not-so-secret Opium dens or the ready availability of “Happy” or”Ecstatic” pizzas (pizzas sprinkled liberally with marijuana or mushrooms.) But if that’s not your thing, and trust me, you might decide that it most definitely isn’t after paying the hefty “fine” (read bribe) when caught purchasing goods from an undercover police officer, then Vang Vieng still has plenty for you to enjoy.

The first thing you’ll probably hear about is tubing. Do it! I cannot tell you of a more chilled out day. Anywhere. For about 115,000 Kip (just under 15 dollars Canadian) you are provided with an inner tube, a ride about four kilometers up the river, and all the relaxation you can handle in one lazy day spent floating down the Nam Song River. The striking limestone mountains provide the perfect backdrop for your day and they reverberate with cries of “Beer Laos, Beer Laos!” Locals on bamboo rafts hook your tube, sometimes whether you wish it or not, with a long bamboo pole and pull you over to sell you cheap, ice cold beer, and a joint, if you’re so inclined.

Stop along the way and explore the myriad of ancient caves, giving you a chance to get out of the sun while you’re at it. Rope swings dot the riverbanks as well for a bit of fun on the river.

The perfect topper to a day like this is relaxing on one of the many riverside patios and taking in another gorgeous sunset while you watch the local women gossip, wash clothes and try and bathe their reluctant, playful children at the water’s edge.
Night life in Vang Vieng can get pretty lively, and you won’t have any trouble finding a place to dine or to mingle with other travelers. However, electricity is not a guaranteed thing in VangVieng, and when it does go out, it can take days to restore. I highly recommend you take advantage of this! The locals have power outages down to a fine art, everything but the internet cafes remain open and in a matter of minutes the whole village is lit by candlelight and you’ll hear the first twang of a backpacker’s acoustic guitar. Stay as long as the power is out, trust me, you won’t miss it. It’s one of the most beautiful sights you’ll ever see; a village in the mountains lit by nothing but candles and the moon, with nothing but the river quietly lapping at it’s banks and the soft conversation of fellow backpackers sharing tales of their travels to accompany the guitar.

Other things to do in Vang Vieng include renting a bicycle and exploring the countryside, plenty of photo-ops along the way. Another river activity is kayaking – a little more physically demanding than inner tubing, but still something any novice can enjoy.

One final tip: if you’re making your way on to Vientiane from Vang Vieng (which can be a bit of a shocking change of pace after so much chill-time), forgo the bus for a kayak. For a minimal cost, you get two experienced, friendly, and very professional locals to guide you down the Nam Song River as you head on to Vientiane, with stops along the way for lunch cooked over an open fire on the riverbanks (try the BBQ’d bat if you’re feeling brave), cliff jumping, rapids, sampling some Lao Lao made by locals (very strong liquor!) and stops in villages along the way to see how the locals live. Once again, any novice can enjoy this, and a bus picks you up midway through the day and transports you the rest of the way to Vientiane, which is a whole other story!

Cairo - Destination, or Waystation?

Cairo, Egypt – Destination, or Waystation?

For some, the chaos of Cairo; the nonsensical traffic rules, the half hazard attempts at city planning, the striking contradictions between ancient and modern, the bustling spice markets amid honking horns, shouting locals, camels and donkeys jockeying for position on the roads amongst the much abused vehicles, is intoxicating. I am not one of those people. I am more of the get in, look at the Giza Pyramids, and get out ilk.

That’s just me however. It doesn’t mean that Cairo doesn’t have a lot to offer for the experience hungry traveler. Quite the opposite, in fact.

When we arrived in Cairo, it was merely a stop along the way to our ultimate destination, a week long cruise of The Nile, which we were looking forward to with great anticipation.

I was traveling with my husband, my brother, and my sister-in-law. The four of us could only stare out the windows of our mini-bus, dumbfounded, as we made our way from the airport to our hotel. Occasionally we were rewarded with the sight of a camel loping casually alongside of us, or a donkey, plodding along with a cart stacked high with local produce. Which brings me to my first point: do not drive in Cairo. Ever. Even if you’re one of those extreme travelers that absolutely must experience everything as the locals do, this is not a good idea. If you’re booked through a tour company, as we were, a driver will probably be provided for you for the duration of your stay. If not, your hotel will most likely be happy to arrange one for you.

Driving through Cairo, one can’t help but be reminded of the grueling chariot race scene from Ben Hur. Occasionally you’d spot a pristine BMW or other luxury model amid the mayhem. It made me wonder why someone would even bother spending that kind of money on a vehicle that was most likely going to be sporting five to ten new dents and scratches by the end of the day.

I suppose if you spent enough time in Cairo, you would start to see some sort of rhyme or reason to their rules of the road, but apparently we weren’t there long enough.

After a harrowing journey across the sprawling, polluted, overcrowded city of Cairo, our hotel was, quite literally, a welcome oasis in the desert.
Le Meridien Pyramids is located minutes from the Giza Pyramids. Upon entering this five star accommodation, you can almost forget the journey it took to get you there. Soaring ceilings, cool marble floors, and friendly, helpful staff greet you upon your arrival.

Boasting five restaurants varying from local fare to, oddly enough, Tex Mex, you’re sure to find one to suit your tastes. If you happen to be lucky enough to arrive during the month of Ramadan, you’ll be treated to a poolside Ramadan buffet beginning nightly at dusk.

Equipped with a swim up bar, the pool is a welcome relief from the desert heat, with stunning views of the Giza Pyramids to complete the sense of surreality. Imagine watching the sun dip down behind the only remaining Ancient Wonder of The World every night.

Once you’ve had a night to get acclimatized to the heat and the pollution, and woken up to a panoramic view of the pyramids from your room, it’s time to plan what to explore while in Cairo.

No need to state the obvious, I suppose, but I will anyhow. The Giza Pyramids. They are everything you’ve imagined them to be after seeing them time after time on television and in the movies. Hire a guide to explain the fascinating history and local knowledge, or pick up a book that does the same and explore at your own pace. Don’t just go stand and gawk at them, or you won’t get the whole feel of what it was like in ancient Egypt and understand the monumental task of constructing the pyramids. While here you can check off “ride a camel in front of the pyramids” off your life’s To Do List. Just be cautious. If you came with a guide, let them do the negotiating for you, or you may end up coughing up a large amount of money for a very short camel ride.

Head over to The Sphinx for some fantastic photo opportunities. Having a guide here is helpful here as well. My husband, a construction buff, was extremely interested to learn the ancient methods of construction as explained by our guide. The only thing that feels a little off about The Giza Pyramids and The Sphinx is their proximity to the city suburbs of Giza. Almost right in the middle of it, actually. At the Sphinx, you can actually see a Pizza Hut across the street as you face away from it to have your photo taken.

Spend at least half a day at the Egyptian Museum. More, if you fancy yourself somewhat of an Egyptologist. It hasn’t had much in the way of updating since the museum’s foundation a century ago, but a dedicated sightseer can still find all the ancient relics and antiquities they desire. Getting out of the sun for a brief respite is worth the price of admission. Once inside, you can spend hours wandering through the exhibits and getting a feel of life in the time of Egyptian Pharaohs.
If you’re an avid souvenir collector, stop at one of the many papyrus factories or perfume factories. For a fairly reasonable rate, the perfume factory can mimic the scent of your favorite perfume or cologne and bottle it up in a gorgeous hand-blown glass bottle to take home with you. Keep in mind, their only purpose is to sell to you whatever they can, at as high a price as they can, so perhaps ask the concierge at your hotel to recommend one that doesn’t charge exorbitant rates.

Another great place to meander around for hours, souvenir shopping and people watching is The Khan al-Khalili, a sprawling market where you’ll find everything from kitschy souvenirs to Egyptian cotton clothing, exotic spices and beautifully hand-made backgammon boards. The merchants here are not too in your face, yet they’re still up for a good haggle.

Once you’ve shopped ‘til you dropped and out-pyramided yourself, it’s time for a pleasant felucca ride on the Nile. Feluccas are the ancient broad sail-boats that can be seen all along the Nile. Rent them by the hour, price includes a captain, and bring along some cold Egyptian Stella to make the ride even more enjoyable. Just one hour on the river, and you’re ready to pack up and move to Cairo – never mind the exhaustion of being a tourist in Egypt’s Greatest City.

These are but a very few of the multitude of activities available to any visitors here, one would have to spend a great deal of time here or make many return visits to see all that Cairo has to offer, and as I write this, I feel a strange desire to return to “The Mother of The World.”