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Thursday, April 29, 2010
5 Road Trips Within a Day’s Drive of Vancouver
There’s nothing quite like loading up your iPod with some good road tripping tunes, gassing up the car, and hitting the open road on a sunny day. BC has some beautiful, well-maintained highways to do just that on. But if you only have a day or two to spare, or you just aren’t into hours and hours on the road, here are some easily accessible spots to check out – all within a day’s drive from Vancouver
Manning Park
Just three hours drive from the city of Vancouver, Manning Park is worth the journey in both the summer and winter months.
If you head up in the winter, enjoy more than 140 acres of ski and snowboard terrain in an uncrowded setting with spectacular views.
Summer months provide gorgeous hiking trails set amongst sub alpine meadows ablaze with colorful wildflowers. Some great photo-ops here, including the wildlife. Visitors can’t resist taking photos of the very nearly tame ground squirrels that have somewhat overtaken the day use area in front of the lodge. Try and remember that you’re not doing the wildlife here any favors by feeding them, and they do quite well on their own in the wild.
Other wildlife commonly spotted in the vast forest off the highway include deer, elk, black and brown bear.
If you’ve got a night or two to spare, Manning Park has chalets, cabins, and a cozy lodge available (complete with pub and restaurant), as well as four campgrounds to choose from.
If you’re camping in the picturesque Lightning Lake campground, rowboats and canoes are available for rental, so pack up a picnic lunch from the store at the lodge and spend the day out on the lake wildlife spotting and exploring the surrounding forest.
The Okanagan Valley
Approximately a five hour drive from Vancouver (depending on where in the Okanagan you’re headed) lies the sun-drenched Okanagan Valley.
An abundance of lakes, ski resorts, vineyards, deserts, waterfalls, and golf courses means that the Okanagan, quite literally, has whatever you’re looking for.
If you’re there for the winter sports; you have your pick of six different ski resorts to choose from; Big White in Kelowna, Silverstar in Vernon, Apex in Penticton, Sun Peaks in Kamloops, Mt Baldy in Oliver, or Crystal Mountain in Westbank. All have accommodations on or near the mountain, with all the amenities you’ll need. Any one of these mountains will bring spectacular views, ski-goggle suntan lines, and the Okanagan’s famous champagne powder.
Summer in the Okanagan brings hot, dry temperatures and sometimes weeks without a cloud in the sky. Take advantage of this in one of the multitude of lakeside resorts, campgrounds, or B&B’s. Boats and jet-ski’s are available for rental at many of the resorts and beaches, so if you haven’t tried waterskiing before, there’s no time like the present.
Another favorite activity of visitors to the Okanagan Valley is houseboating. With plenty of companies to choose from, they’ll give you a quick operator’s course and off you go for a week of fun in the sun.
There are loads of secluded beaches tucked amongst the shorelines of the Okanagan’s many lakes, perfect for entire days spent at the water’s edge with the family, or a romantic moonlit night with someone special.
The Okanagan plays host to some of the most prestigious golf courses in BC. Predator Ridge, in particular, on the outskirts of Vernon is one of the more demanding courses and draws professional golfers from all over the world. But that doesn’t mean novice golfers can’t find a course to suit their ability.
A great way to spend the day, or even a weekend, is touring some of the Okanagan’s famous vineyards. With views and selection rivaling that of Napa Valley, the Okanagan is definitely making a name for itself in the wine industry.
Whistler
Two hours drive from Vancouver, on one of the most scenic drives in North America; the world-famous Whistler Blackcomb Mountains attract visitors all year round.
The sea to sky highway up to Whistler is half the reason for the journey itself. If you’ve got the time to spare, stop along the way to take in some of the sights it has to offer. Stop for fish and chips and watch the ferries come in at Horseshoe Bay, check out the BC Museum of Mining at Brittania Beach, hike the Shannon Falls, watch climbers scale The Chief right before Squamish, go bald eagle watching in Brackendale, stop for a dip in picturesque Alice Lake, or grab a coffee in Function Junction. And that’s all before you even reach Whistler.
If you’re in Whistler for the winter sports, try out the new Peak to Peak Gondola. Spanning the distance between Whistler and Blackcomb Mountains, the awe-inspiring view is made all that much more spectacular by the glass-bottomed gondolas that are available at no extra charge.
Summer in Whistler will keep visitors just as busy as the winter months. Bear sightings are common between May and October so be sure to bring your camera.
Mountain runs are just as busy in the summer, with thrill seeking trail riders on their mountain bikes. Explore 4946 feet of lift accessible trails, ranging from novice to extreme.
Zip-trekking is also popular during the summer months in Whistler.
Alpha Lake, Lost Lake, and Alta Lake are popular destinations for locals and visitors alike. Grab the dog, a Frisbee, and a case of cold local microbrews and spend the day just chilling. Odds are good that some locals will provide the guitar or drumbeats for background music.
If you’re up for some pretty crazy night life, Whistler’s more than happy to supply it. From a relaxed evening spent people watching on one of the many heated patios, to insane house music spun by DJ’s from all over the world, to anything in between, Whistler’s got it.
There are world class dining options to choose from or just casual local fare, depending on your mood, or budget. No one said Whistler was cheap.
It is still possible to find affordable accommodations in Whistler however, and if you check out whistler.com you can probably find something in your price range. Your best bet is to phone the main reservation line (1-800-Whistler) and speak with one of their amazingly helpful operators, who are also Whistler locals, to help you find exactly what you’re looking for. I’ve used their services several times myself, and it doesn’t matter how specific you are - if they have it, they will find it for you.
Mount Baker
Look South from Vancouver on a clear day and it’s hard to miss the imposing, majestic sight that is Mount Baker. Just an hour and a half drive from Vancouver (depending on border traffic) brings you to this rustic locale for some fantastic, laid back skiing and snowboarding.
There are no accommodations on the mountain itself, which helps to maintain the natural setting, so it’s a good idea to get online ahead of time and find yourself some lodging. There are two small towns on the way to Mount Baker that provide several chalets, cabins, or even houses for rental, at very reasonable rates.
The closest is the town of Glacier, which has loads of small town charm. Stop into Graham’s pub style restaurant (children are welcome, but it can get pretty lively later in the evening) and enjoy talented local musicians performing live in this tiny venue. And be sure to try their amazing fish tacos.
Wake n’ Bakery is great for coffee and a muffin for the drive up the mountain.
Milano’s Italian restaurant across the street from Graham’s is probably one of the better Italian restaurants you’ll have the opportunity to visit. Without the snooty, high end service. Locals in the town of Glacier are warm, welcoming, and ready to impart any local history to curious visitors.
Maple Falls, a little closer to the border, is a tiny bit bigger than Glacier, but not much. There are a few more dining options to choose from here, and all are just as friendly as those in Glacier.
Joowana’s restaurant in Maple Falls hosts all day outdoor music festivals in their “back yard” during summer months. Grab a seat on a log next to the bonfire, order up some BBQ, and enjoy.
Mountain Man coffee shop and Harvest Moon Bakery serve up hearty breakfasts for boarders and skiers on their way up the mountain.
If you want to explore the area a bit and try something different, drive towards Bellingham and stop at the North Fork Beer Shrine for some of the best pizza you will ever have. Just ask anyone who’s been there. North Fork Beer Shrine brews up some delicious microbrew beers, serves up hand-tossed pizza with an eclectic selection of toppings, and doubles as a wedding chapel! Check it out. If you’re looking for somewhere funky and unusual to host your wedding, North Fork Beer Shrine is it. They also have a lovely back garden to hoist a pint in when the weather’s warm.
One more restaurant I’ll mention, which is a little further along the road, but not to be missed, is Il Caffé Rifugio. This cozy family run Italian café serves fantastic homemade menu items (try their eggs benny served on potato pancakes) along with pleasant conversation with owner Richard, who also cooks, serves and whips up tasty Mexican hot chocolates for patrons.
If you’re headed to the Mount Baker area during summer months, there are plenty of places to set up camp.
Silver Lake, near Maple Falls has great campsites or rustic lakeside cabins to choose from, and never seems to get too overcrowded. Motorboats are not allowed on the lake, which is a blessing; but rowboats are available for rental and make for a pleasant day in the sun. Grab some sandwiches from the deli counter at Maple Fuels, an icy bottle of Red Barn Cider, and you’re good to go.
The Nooksak River Casino, in Deming (on the way to Bellingham) hosts fabulous outdoor music festivals during the summer. Check the dates online for blues, classic rock, or jazz festivals and bring your lawn chair. Tents are set up to keep hungry music fans satisfied. Quite often local First Nations will run the food stands and you’ll have the opportunity to try some of their traditional dishes, usually running about three to five dollars a plate! Great value. Don’t worry, they also have a beer garden, if you’re so inclined.
Vancouver Island
Just a short ferry ride away from Vancouver (just shy of two hours if you’re heading out from Horseshoe Bay to Nanaimo), Vancouver Island is home to countless attractions that are well worth the very enjoyable trip over.
While much cheaper to ferry over as a foot passenger, if you’re planning to explore the island a bit, you might want to consider bringing your car across with you.
Nanaimo is home to a multitude of parks, beaches, hiking trails and great seafood restaurants along the waterfront. Fishing, kayaking and canoeing are all very popular here.
Visit the city of Victoria and at times you’ll feel as though you’ve somehow arrived in England. Double Decker bus tours, high tea at The Empress hotel, and horse-drawn carriages complete this illusion. Victoria is one of the prettiest harbor-front cities in North America and locals take great pride in maintaining this beautiful city. First Nations also hold a strong presence here and it’s a great place to purchase genuine First Nations artwork.
The small town of Chemainus remains a big draw to artists from around the globe. The majority of buildings here are painted with detailed murals, turning the town into a large outdoor gallery for visitors to enjoy. It’s also a great spot to go antiquing and art gallery hopping.
The fishing village of Tofino is rapidly becoming a destination for surfers from around the world; or at least those who appreciate the laid back, nature loving lifestyle of Tofino. It is also home to some of the largest, untouched rainforest on the Pacific Rim. There are quite a few tour companies that offer eco-friendly off-road tours of the rainforest.
Long Beach is where you’ll find the surf-worthy waves, and the dedicated surfers that hit them almost year round. If you’re not up for lessons, it’s still a great place to spend the day just watching the surfers do their thing.
Tofino is also a great location for storm watching, and there’s plenty of cozy accommodations where you can bundle up with a glass of wine, sit indoors and watch the storms roll in.
There are several well maintained campgrounds in Tofino, located just off or near the beaches, but the weather here can be rather unpredictable, so bring your tarps!
These are just a few of the communities on Vancouver Island. You could easily spend weeks exploring the island, and should! Most waterfront communities on the island have whale watching tour companies as well as sport fishing tours. You can choose from a half day on the water to an entire week, if you desire.
If you’ve got the time to spare, just one of these road trips could easily lead you down a very pleasant, week long detour; but if you only have the one day, then all are an enjoyable, easy drive from the city of Vancouver.
I hope you enjoy visiting these places as much as I did, and still do. Now throw on some sunnies, load up the iPod, and hit the road!
Saturday, April 24, 2010
Christmas in New York City
We’ve all seen Miracle on 34th Street. New York City lit up like a Christmas tree, good cheer everywhere, Macy’s window displays. What could be more Christmas than New York City on Christmas Eve? So I decided, a couple of Christmases ago, to surprise my husband with a last minute getaway to the Big Apple. (Did I really just use the word Christmas four – no – five times?)
We were scheduled to fly in on December 20th, leaving on Christmas Eve, just in time to arrive back home to spend the big day with family and friends. Didn’t quite work out that way; our flight was delayed by 8 hours, so we spent much of Christmas Eve at JFK airport, and then our connecting flight at Chicago O’Hare was canceled due to a white-out blizzard, so we booked the last room available at the Airport Hilton and spent the night there. Still one of the best Christmases I can remember. Since we had such a fabulous time, I’ve put together our itinerary, of sorts, for you and your loved ones to make the most of your holiday trip to the Big Apple.
We touched the ground at JFK with fingers crossed, hoping to be greeted by a blanket of snow covering the city. No such luck. It was cold, grey and windy. What little snow there was drifted across the tarmac in little swirls. No matter, we were there! We hopped a cab into Manhattan, where we had booked ourselves into the Paramount Hotel, walking distance from Times Square. I’m always leery about online bookings when it comes to cities I’ve never visited before; it’s a bit like a lottery, waiting to see what sort of lodgings you’re going to end up in. Part of the excitement, I think. We lucked out with the Paramount. We entered the funky little boutique hotel, lobby decked out with a giant tree and all the garland you could ask for. Classic Christmas carols drifted from the speakers as visitors and bellhops alike bustled through the lobby, arms loaded with suitcases overstuffed with Christmas shopping to bring home to their families.
On a recent trip to New York, my husband and I stopped by the Paramount to have a drink in their bar (one of my husband’s favorites) and were disappointed to see that the hotel had recently undergone renovations. Don’t get me wrong, it looks fantastic now, but we had fallen in love with the classic New York look of the place when we first visited. Still, I suppose a Times Square hotel must update now and then if they wish to remain competitive. I just wish they had kept the brocaded red velvet chair with the snarling Rottweiler motif in the lobby. Sigh.
We spent the first night there searching out (and finding) what we considered to be a typical New York all night diner. Bar stools at the counter, pie under a glass dome, and windows fogged with grease, this little joint in Hell’s Kitchen was exactly what we sought. I’d tell you the name, but sadly, I didn’t write it down. Don’t worry though, there’s plenty just like it to be found, if a greasy spoon diner is what you’re looking for. After wolfing down a couple of pastramis on rye and cold cokes to wash them down , we went in search of a little Irish snug to have a pint, an Irish coffee, and do some people watching. No problem finding that either. If there’s one thing New York is not lacking in, it’s Irish pubs.
After hitting a few pubs, we stopped at our hotel bar for a nightcap, which turned into several because of the cool ambience of the place. Dim lighting, low tables, big, comfy plush leather chairs and a DJ spinning house tracks kept us there for a martini or four. I sincerely hope that the bar there wasn’t part of the revamping of the hotel, but I think it was.
We woke up the next morning feeling energized and ready to explore this great city. What to do first? Well, every large tourist hub seems to have an abundance of hop-on, hop-off bus tours. New York City is no exception to this rule. Just a quick walk over to Times Square from the hotel and we found what we were looking for. If you’re ever in any big city and feeling a little overwhelmed by your options, I always recommend starting with a two day pass on the bus tours. Preferably the open-topped buses so you can get a 360 degree view as you move through the city. This allows you the option to pick and choose which stops you want to get off and explore without all the walking that usually goes along with it. And if you miss something on the first day, a two day pass will allow you to come back and visit that spot.
Bundled up warm, we picked our seats on the bus. It was a chilly, clear day in the city and we had the entire top deck to ourselves. Perfect. Our tour guide/comedian kept us entertained and informed for much of the ride. Pointing out all the sights and filling us in on local knowledge, he occasionally requested the driver pull up close to other bus tours so he could chat up the female tour guides and pass them his number. The tour took us through the Theatre District, Times Square, down Broadway, through SoHo, Little Italy, Chinatown, down to Battery Park, past Liberty Island, Ground Zero, under the Brooklyn Bridge, past the UN Building, through a lovely tour of some gorgeous brownstone mansions, past Central Park, Rockefeller Center, and back into Midtown Manhattan.
We decided that day to disembark at Battery Park to take the ferry over and visit the Statue of Liberty. Standing in the line, which moved remarkably quickly, we were entertained by a dreadlocked street performer playing steel drum. After some quick photo-ops (it was cold and windy along the water!) and a hot chocolate, we ferried back over to Manhattan. We wandered along the waterfront a bit and admired some of the buildings and sculptures along the way.
Hopping back on the next bus that came along we decided to jump off near Empire State Building and do a bit of a walking tour from there, stopping of course at the Heartland Brew Pub at the base of Empire State for a pint and a pub lunch before ascending to the viewing deck.
After admiring the spectacular city views we did a walking tour through the Flatiron District, over to Macy’s to check out their Christmas window displays, which always draw a large crowd, stopped in to Macy’s for some shopping, of course, and then some shoe shopping on 5th Ave!
Our plan for that evening was to hit a Broadway show. Because it was Christmas, I wanted to see the Nutcracker Suite as performed by the New York City Ballet, but my husband had his heart set on the long running favorite, Phantom of the Opera. Since it was technically his trip, we decided on Phantom. We went to Times Square to purchase some discount tickets (big orange signs that say TKTS, right in the middle of Times Square – can’t miss it), stood in the incredibly long line-up that moved remarkably quickly, and we were on our way.
Housed in the gorgeous Majestic Theatre, which was originally built in 1927, Phantom seems right at home in this wonderfully maintained musical house. I was glad that we had gone with my husband’s pick.
If you’re planning on dining out before the show, arrive early or book ahead. We gave ourselves two hours for dinner before the show, thinking that would be more than enough, as the Italian restaurant we chose was very nearly across the street from The Majestic. It was incredibly packed with theatre patrons who’d had the same idea. Service was rushed, although pleasant, and food was slow. We had to remind our server a couple of times that we had a show to catch, but stopped when the manager came out and began berating the poor fellow right in front of us. The manager retrieved our dinners himself and we quickly saw why the server couldn’t bring it out when we asked. My chicken was practically raw. I shrugged, ate the salad and veggies around it, tipped the waiter generously (it wasn’t his fault) and rushed off to the show.
After the show, which we thoroughly enjoyed, we were still hungry (obviously) and chanced upon an open pizza joint right next door to our hotel. This became a regular stop for us on our way up to the room every night. Nothing like a slice of New York style pizza after a night on the town.
The next day our plan was to hit Rockefeller Centre, Central Park, and yes, more shopping! We hit the buffet breakfast at our hotel, which was fabulous, if a little on the pricey side, and then hit the streets to do some wandering around and photo-taking before heading off to our destination.
We absolutely loved the “New York-sized” Christmas decorations everywhere. Giant nutcracker dolls, giant trees, giant ornaments everywhere. Who cares if there was no snow; it still gave you that warm, fuzzy feeling.
We got to Rockefeller Center hoping to do some ice-skating on the rink there, but were put off by the tiny ice rink and the massive line-up of people waiting to get on it and skate in a tiny circle, along with hundreds of other people. So we took some pictures of the famous Christmas Tree there instead, along with the many other sights, and started off for Central Park. We hadn’t realized that Central Park also had an outdoor skating rink that was much larger with less than half the line-up. We spent a good couple of hours there, skating (badly) around, drinking hot chocolate, and listening to Bing Crosby from the loudspeakers singing of good cheer and white Christmases. Best. Day. Ever. Just don’t skate in the wrong direction. I’ve never seen so many small children get yelled at before by the “rink police.”
What else is there to do when in Central Park (besides ice skating) than take a horse-drawn carriage ride through the park. Of course we did just that. The movies always show two characters, cuddled together under a blanket, riding through the park for what seems like hours, while the driver (Is that what you call them?) discreetly pretends not to notice their undying declarations of love going on behind him. This was not our experience. I believe it was twenty minutes, the duration of which was spent (by me) listening to my husband and the driver discuss English premier league football.
After quite possibly the least romantic horse and carriage ride ever, we wandered back to Rockefeller Center, shopping a bit along the way of course, and found a little wine bar, grabbed a bench seat at the window, and sat down to warm up and indulge in some fine reds. Morrell’s Wine Bar at Rockefeller Plaza has an amazing selection, great view of the plaza, and choice menu items. You can’t go wrong. We returned there on our next trip to New York and were happy to discover that they hadn’t changed a single thing about it.
Possibly a few too many reds later, we thought it was time to retire to our room. On the way back we spotted a cycle rickshaw and thought maybe we should relive our horse and carriage ride from earlier, since it went so well. Silly us, we didn’t negotiate a price per distance before jumping in and had to shell out 30 bucks for a measly block and a half ride. Totally not worth the price. But, he did, conveniently, drop us in front of Rosie O’Grady’s Irish Pub, so, of course, once we were standing in front of the doors, the logic became, “Why not?” Great pub, great atmosphere!
Quick slice on the way up to the room after the pub, and we were done for the night.
We devoted the next day specifically to shopping, making time to stop for lunch and dinner and several pubs in between. Alright, so maybe we didn’t get a whole lot of shopping done. But we did find an amazing Beatles memorabilia collection housed in the Hard Rock Café on Broadway. Normally I try to avoid giant chain restaurants like this one and hit up more funky local haunts, but I’d heard rumor of their Beatles collection, and I wasn’t disappointed. George Harrison’s guitar, a touching shrine to John Lennon and the original doors from the Beatles Abbey Road Studio (that you can actually touch) gave this Beatles fanatic her fix. The only thing I didn’t manage to squeeze in on this trip, which I was dying to, was a trip over to the Dakota (John Lennon’s former home and the sight of his assassination) across from Central Park, and the memorial to him in Central Park. But I managed to get there on my next visit, so that’s okay.
Roaming around looking for a nice place for dinner that night, we happened across Ellen’s Stardust Diner on Broadway. Why hadn’t I heard of this place before? With singing waitstaff (most of them are aspiring broadway actors/singers), simple 50’s style fare, and an audience participation type atmosphere, this was a great place to end up our trip before leaving the next day. Staff dance along the back of your booths, singing 50’s, 60’s and 70’s hits, throwing in plenty of comic relief and encouraging audience/patrons to dance and sing along. They also did a smashing version of Rockin’ Around the Christmas Tree.
Another great restaurant to check out if you’re in New York is Island Burgers in Hell’s Kitchen. We didn’t get there on this trip, but my brother and his wife steered us there on our next trip to NYC. It’s a tiny little surfer themed restaurant (hence the name) that boasts the best burgers and shakes in Hell’s Kitchen. They don’t lie. It was fantastic. Find them on 9th Ave and enjoy!
The next day was our last day there. We took one last walk through Times Square to do some last minute souvenir shopping, had one more slice of pizza and then it was time to cab it to JFK for our soon to be discovered debacle at the airport. While in the cab, trying to figure out the mystery of just why NewYork cab drivers are continuously honking their horns at seemingly nothing, we reflected on our trip there and decided another trip to New York was definitely in order.
There’s so much more to see and do in New York City. But that’s the great thing; it’s only a plane ride away, so you can go back as often as you like, to explore and enjoy. Now I get why everyone has those I heart New York t-shirts. In fact, I’m wearing mine right now.
Monday, April 12, 2010
6 Islands You Should Visit in Thailand, and Why.
Thailand is home to some of the most beautiful islands in the world. Lush jungles, elephants roaming in their natural habitats, crystal clear waters with some of the best diving in Southeast Asia, they’re a tropical paradise in an exotic Asian setting. From the rustic and natural to the downright hedonistic, there’s an island for whatever kind of beach holiday you’re looking for.
Here are just six islands I had the opportunity to visit while in Thailand, each one more different than the last, and, if you have the chance, I recommend you spend some time on each of these lovely island paradises.
Ko Pha Ngan
World renowned for it’s Full Moon Party (and Half-Moon, and Quarter Moon, and Day-After Full Moon, and so on), Ko Pha Ngan has made a name for itself just by inventing reasons to host a party. And what a party it is. Backpackers stream in from all over the world in the week leading up to the Full Moon. Finding lodging during this time can be extremely challenging, so if you’re planning on attending the Full Moon Party, it’s a good idea to get online and find a bungalow or guest house to suit your needs. The party itself is held on Hat Rin Beach, so if you want to be in walking, or stumbling distance, it’s best to book something in this area. However, bungalows right on the beach tend to be incredibly noisy and prone to break-ins. Finding a bungalow off the main beach or even on other, quieter areas of the island is ideal. Guesthouses and bungalows all over the island are more than happy to arrange transportation to and from the party for you, no matter the time of day or night.
Rental scooters and motorcycles are also available in Thong Sala at very reasonable rates (your guesthouse will arrange a rental for you if you don’t want to journey into Thong Sala), but it’s not a great idea to count on this for transport home from the Full Moon Party, even if you’re not indulging in buckets of Thai whiskey and Red Bull, or the veritable buffet of marijuana, MDMA, mushrooms or ecstasy available at the party. The roads from Hat Rin are in sore need of repair, and it’s mainly the other drivers returning from the party that are cause for worry.
Sunset Bungalows on the west side of the island offers clean, inexpensive huts built into the hillside overlooking the ocean. All bungalows here provide hammocks strung from each ocean view balcony to assist you in your colossal Full Moon Party come down.
But the Full Moon Party isn’t the only draw for Ko Pha Ngan. It’s also home to some fairly respectable diving, excellent hikes through the jungle, and even a temple or two to explore.
There’s no airport on Ko Pha Ngan, so the best route for a backpacker on a budget is to take the night train from Bangkok to Surat Thani (request a sleeper bunk, the price difference is minimal and it’s worth it) and then ferry over from there.
Ko Samui
If you can look past the beach bars, the varying types of insanely loud music competing with the neighboring bar stereos, and the giggling, overly- friendly “bar girls” of Ko Samui, then you just may find that this island has a lot more to offer than it’s reputation claims.
After spending three weeks on Ko Pha Ngan, I was spoiled by the extremely affordable lodgings, meals, and transportation. Ko Samui was a bit of a rude awakening, to say the least. Luckily I was traveling with a friend at that particular point and we were able to cut costs by sharing a run-down bungalow with two beds off the beach. I wish I’d known how friendly he’d gotten with one of the bar girls prior to my arrival, however, as she continuously showed up at 3am demanding to know who I was and what I was doing there. No amount of explaining that we were just friends was going to convince her that I wasn’t her latest replacement. After a few nights of this, I genuinely began to fear for my safety and suggested that maybe it was time we move on to another island.
But never mind the bar girls. If you’re not there looking for them, they’re easy enough to avoid. There’s plenty else to do on Ko Samui.
Hike to the Hin Lat or Na Muang Falls if you’re up for a bit of a walk.
Take a guided kayak trip in Ang Thong National Marine Park, where you can explore caves, snorkel, or just relax on the white sand beaches of the hidden lagoons.
Muay Thai matches are also regular events on Samui, and the entrance fee is small.
Ko Chang
Thai for Elephant Island, Ko Chang is appropriately named. If you’d prefer not to make the long journey north to arrange your elephant trekking from Chiang Mai, Ko Chang is the place to go.
Like something reminiscent of Jurassic Park, Ko Chang’s lush rainforest jungles and steep cliffs rising from the surrounding ocean are stunning to behold as you arrive by longtail boat or ferry from the mainland.
I arrived in Ko Chang after a bit of a long haul through Cambodia, and was in desperate need of some hammock time. After doing a bit of elephant trekking, snorkeling, and kayaking around Ko Chang, I broke out the hammock and the book and settled right in for some chill time. I didn’t realize just how relaxed I had become when I went to search for my flip-flops to head off the beach for a change and maybe do some shopping. I had lost my flip-flops. Two weeks prior. And I hadn’t even noticed. It was clearly time to depart from my little stretch of beach!
I spent much of my time on Ko Chang at Nature Beach Bungalows, on Lonely Beach, which was within walking distance to many of the restaurants along the beach. The Treehouse Restaurant is one of the favorites among backpackers, with a large “treehouse” wooden deck overhanging the ocean. Pillows are strewn about on the deck for maximum lounging comfort amongst the low tables. Most restaurants along the beach serve amazing nightly BBQ buffets of fresh caught fish, thai salads, rice and BBQ’d corn on the cob.
After sunset you can settle in on a beach mat with a bucket of SangSom (Thai whiskey) and watch the firedancers spin their poi and listen to drum and bass, reggae, or jungle beats until 4 am, if you’re so inclined. Just be sure to request a bungalow a little off the beach if that’s not your thing, because the music gets louder as the night progresses.
If you’ve had enough of the chill-out scene, head over to White Sand Beach, slightly more populated and easier to find supplies for your travels. Bamboo Bungalows offer clean, comfy lodgings right on the beach.
Ko Phi Phi
Famed for its clear waters and sand like flour, you’ll see when you arrive why they chose this locale to film the backpacker cult hit The Beach.
Ko Phi Phi offers up some spectacular diving and snorkeling. Or perfect little secluded bays to just crack a good book and worship the sun. Longtail boats are available to taxi you wherever on the island you wish to go.
Lodgings on Ko Phi Phi range from downright luxurious to seriously budget. I was lucky enough to meet up with some friends from Italy who were on a short beach holiday and were more than willing to share their air conditioned (!!!) bungalow at Natural Resort with me. It had been a long time since I’d experienced more than a squat toilet, fan, and a hammock so this seemed like heaven on earth to me. The only problem I encountered was the secluded location of the resort. Located on the tip of the island with no roads in or out, I had to book a water taxi for any excursion. But if you’re looking for a peaceful, quiet getaway with plenty of opportunities for water sports, Natural Resort is the place to be. Unfortunately, my friends weren’t staying long, so I had to water taxi back to mid-island and find myself some cheaper digs. Chong Khao Bungalows had just what I needed. Cheap, clean, and centrally located, it was the perfect place to restock my dwindling book supply, book some day trips off island, and meet some fellow backpackers at the bars and restaurants nearby.
Ko Tao
Known to many underwater enthusiasts as The place to dive in Thailand, Ko Tao is the perfect spot for novice divers to acquire their PADI certificate.
High season on Ko Tao can get pretty crowded, so if you’re not planning on doing any diving, your odds of finding a place to stay can get pretty slim. Most resorts have divemasters living and working full time for them, and the push to sign up for a dive course or dive holiday can get pretty aggressive. Thankfully, that was just what I was there to do, so I had no problem finding lodging. I signed up with Crystal Dive Resort for a five night stay – the duration it would take to acquire my PADI certificate. If you’re buying a dive package, the accommodation comes pretty much included, if you compare the cost of getting your PADI certificate to other countries. I was happy to stay in a large, tile-floored, air conditioned bungalow with private, western style toilet just a short walk from the beach. I had been traveling so long that I’d forgotten what it was like to be up at the crack of dawn everyday hitting the books before diving though.
After finishing my PADI course I stuck around to do some more diving and just soak up the vibe of the island, as it was nearing Full Moon and I wanted to spend it in a more chilled out atmosphere than nearby Ko Pha Ngan.
I moved to SB (I think it stood for Sandy Beach) Bungalows further along the island, but still on the beach. Sigh. Back to squat toilets and no air conditioning. I had thought it would be a little more mellow on Ko Tao for Full Moon, but was surprised to see the same ravers busting out the ‘shroom shakes, ecstasy tablets and giant spliffs that accompany the Full Moon on Ko Pha Ngan. Still, the crowd was much smaller than the usual 8,000-10,000 you can get up to on Ko Pha Ngan, so, a little less crazy.
Ko Samet
Ko Samet was kind of a stopover for me in order to avoid spending New Year’s Eve either on a bus to Cambodia or in Bangkok, so I wasn’t really sure what to expect since I hadn’t researched it all that much before arriving.
I was pleasantly surprised to find pristine, sandy beaches, great restaurants and a clean, quiet atmosphere to lay low in for a few days.
Ko Samet is a popular destination for Thai Nationals, so, being New Year’s Eve, it was quite crowded by the time I’d arrived and finding lodging was a tad on the difficult side. Locals had also jacked their prices up accordingly, thereby adding to my dilemma. I was in talking to the manager of what turned out to be the last available bungalow on the island, trying to negotiate a fairer price, when three weary backpackers came through the door, heaving their rucksacks off with a sigh and looking without much hope toward the manager. I quickly explained the situation to them and asked how they felt about sharing a bungalow between the four of us for the duration of my stay, or whenever anything else became available, whichever came first. They readily agreed and after another round of negotiation with the manager (he had rapidly appraised the situation and jacked the price up another 300 baht as we were standing there – cheek!), we had ourselves a lovely bamboo bungalow with air conditioning and private bathroom right off the beach. I was relieved to see four mattresses strewn across the floor of the largish sized bungalow, as we hadn’t really checked the sleeping arrangements before agreeing to a price and I was the only female in the group
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Having spent only three days on Ko Samet, I can’t tell you as much about the island as I’d like to. I can tell you that if you arrive on any sort of Thai National or foreign holiday without pre-arranging lodgings, be prepared to rough it on the beach for at least a day or two. I came across quite a few travelers who were doing just that. Not the worst place in the world to spend a night or two camping rough however. Clean white sands, warm clear water, and public showers available at very reasonable rates.
Ko Samet is a nice quiet island where you’ll get an authentic feel for Thai culture. Day trip excursions are available if you want to explore some of the smaller surrounding islands, and there are also one or two dive companies where you can get PADI certified or just add some more sights to your dive log.
The locals put on a great New Year’s Eve party, much different than you’d experience on some of the other, touristier islands. Traditional Thai dancers, singers and Muay Thai Boxing matches made for a refreshing change of pace.
A couple of things to note before you journey to the beautiful islands of Thailand; if you’re planning to indulge in the abundance of illegal substances available to tourists on many of these islands, be careful! Thai Police are ever vigilant, though it may not seem so when you attend a Full Moon Party, and are famous for their extremely thorough searches and bank-account-emptying “fines.” It may seem like a great idea at the time, but I came across many a backpacker whose holidays were ruined or cut short by run-ins with Thai Police. Worse still, imagine ending up in a Thai Prison for an indeterminate amount of time.
Women traveling alone; keep an eye on your drinks, particularly at the Full Moon Party, as there have been many reports of sexual assaults. Better yet, find a group of ladies, join them for the party, and look out for each other. Other than that, Thailand is extremely safe for women traveling alone, as I can attest to. Just don’t put yourself in silly situations.
Most of these islands, if you arrive when they’re not gearing up for a Full Moon Party or some sort of national holiday, have more than enough accommodations to suit your needs, from budget to luxury, and you should be fine arriving without pre-booking and just checking out the ones that catch your eye.
Having said all that, the only thing left is; have fun island-hopping!
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